1997 Land Rover Discovery - reset ABS warning light

The following are instructions I found on the 'net. They worked perfectly for me on our 1997 Land Rover Discovery to reset the ABS warning light. Our car as the OBD-II connector under the dash, projecting through the fashia just below the fuse box and above the gas pedal.


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ABS Fault Blink Code Diagnostic Procedure

MODEL:
Discovery

AFFECTED VEHICLES
LP
LH
LJ TA163104 onwards
LJ TA501920 onwards

DETAIL

If diagnostic equipment is not available (i.e. there is not a current TestBook disk available) the following procedure can be carried out using the "Blink Code" method to read fault codes. Faults are stored in the ECU memory in code form, which can be retrieved by initiating and reading a series of flash and pause sequences on the ABS warning light.

ACTION REQUIRED

If diagnostic equipment is not available follow the procedure below to diagnose an ABS fault.

PARTS INFORMATION

YPJ10015 - terminal - 2 required (available in LRNA Terminal Kit).

PROCEDURE

1. Fabricate a jumper wire with YPJ10015 terminals and appropriate wire (6" length 16 gauge).

2. Locate TestBook diagnostic connector under dash. Connect jumper wire to pins 5 and 15 and turn ignition to position 2.

3. Five seconds after the ignition is turned to position 2 the Anti-Lock warning light will extinguish, indicating the start of the cycle.

4. Observe the Anti-Lock warning light, the start phase of the blink code is signified by the following:

- Pause = 2.5 secs. (long)
- Flash = 2.5 secs. (long)
- Pause = 2.5 secs. (long)
- Flash = 0.5 secs. (short)

5. The first part of the code number is determined by a pause of 2.5 secs. which precedes a series of short flashes then a long pause. The number of short flashes is equal to the first digit in the fault code.

6. The second digit in the code number is determined after a pause of 2.5 secs. which occurs between the first and second code flashes. After the pause there will be a number of short flashes, the number of flashes is equal to the second digit in the fault code. After the flashes there will be another pause of 2.5 seconds before the system repeats the flash and pause sequence. This will allow for a verification of the code or if the initial flash and pause sequence was missed.

7. The sequence of the start phase, first and second code parts will continue until terminated by the operator. To terminate the code sequence disconnect the jumper wire.

NOTE:Termination will clear the memory of that particular fault, and the fault will not be retrievable. Do not terminate the sequence if unsure of the code number.

8. The memory is capable of storing more than one fault. To search the memory, after the jumper wire is disconnected wait until the Anti-Lock light illuminates and then turn the ignition off, the code is now completely cleared. To obtain the next code repeat the procedure from step 2.

9. If there are no faults remaining there will be a long pause of 7.5 secs. after the start phase.

10. Once all the codes have been obtained and cleared, locate the problem cause and rectification for each code and fix accordingly.


FAULT CODE LIST

KEY: IV - Inlet Valve, OV - Outlet Value, RCP - Recirculation pump (ABS pump)

Sensor check:

1. Carry out multimeter test, check electrical resistance of sensor, this should be 700-2000 ohms. Check sensor voltage output, this should be greater than or equal to 0.93 VAC RMS when rotating the wheel at 1 rev/sec.

2. Check sensor air gap. Push sensor through bush until it touches exciter ring. Sensor will be knocked back to correct position when the vehicle is driven.

3. Check run out of the exciter ring and rectify if necessary.

4. Check bearing play and adjust if necessary.

5. Check sensor bush and exchange if necessary.

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Below are four pictures and some videos showing where the Testbook Connector (OBD-II connector / Diagnostic Test Connector) is located, what the pinout looks like, and the jumpers I used to initiate the blink codes.

The picture below shows the pinout for the connector. Note that the diagram I printed off the 'net is being held upside down. Pin no. 1 is at the lower right corner, pin no. 8 is at the lower left corner, pin no. 9 is at the upper right corner, and pin no. 16 is at the upper left corner.

The picture below shows my jumper setup. FANCY! The wires were too small a gauge, so I folded them over and squished the fold with pliers. They fit nicely after that.

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The videos below show the blink codes being read out. The first code is 2-6, the second is 2-14, and the third is 5-14. Below the videos is a post copied from the web explaining the codes (the post also explains how to do this on a different Land Rover).

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Just behind the driver's feet is a plastic panel. Remove that panel and locate the blue ABS diagnostic connector. Use a paper clip to jump the black and black/pink wires together. Remove the trim panel on the door side of the seat and remove the ABS light relay. It will be either blue or green depending on the year of the vehicle. Turn on the key (don't engage the starter) and the anti-lock light will begin a series of blinks. The first will be a long blink followed by a short blink. This indicates that the ECU is in diagnostic mode. Start counting the blinks after that. The first code that comes up will be something like blink, blink, a 2.5 second pause, and then blink, blink, blink, blink, blink, blink to indict a failure code of 2-6. Each stored code will display this way 3 times before the next one starts. It is a slow process (especially if you have 4-15's and 6-15's stored) but it works.
The Codes:
Code 2-6 - Faulty stoplight switch or wiring. Fuse A5 blown or not fitted
Code 2-7 - Continuous supply to ECU with ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring Code 2-8 - No voltage to ABS solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Code 2-12 - Front right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-13 - Rear left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-14 - Front left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-15 - Rear right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 3-0 to 3-9 - Open circuit in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU
Code 4-0 to 4-9 - Short circuit to earth in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster
Code 4-12 - Front right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 4-13 - Rear left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 4-14 - Front left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high. Code 4-15 - Rear right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 5-0 to 5-9 - Short circuit to 12volt in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, possible earth fault.Code 5-12 - Front right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-13 - Rear left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-14 - Front left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-15 - Rear right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 6-0 to 6-9 - Short circuit between two connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
Code 6-12 - Front right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-13 - Rear left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-14 - Front left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-15 - Rear right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.

To clear the code, pull out the paper clip whle the code is flashing. I only had one code for my problem, but for multiple codes, I understand that the next code will come up after you clear the current one. You might need to turn the ignition off, replace the jumper and turn back on for that, though.

http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=19874

1997 Land Rover Discovery short circuit on Fuse 8

1997 Land Rover Discovery short circuit on Fuse 8 (fascia fuse box fuse F8) has finally been cured.

Symptoms: no dinging alarm bell when you have the driver's side (left side) door open and the headlights (or running lights) on; no dash lights (no dashboard illumination); no clock light (backlight - the light behind the clock); no passenger side (right side) running lights, including no righthand tail light.

The cause turned out to be a broken piece of plastic on the glove compartment light. Opening the glove compartment door immediately blew the fuse. If Land Rover had spent 10 seconds thinking about this, they would have foreseen it. Oh well.

Here's a short video clip of the bad glove box light (glove compartment light) that resulted in the blown fuse at F8 in the fascia fuse box:



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Check out this post from somebody who likely had the same problem:

1997 Land Rover Discovery, Fuse #8 keeps blowing. When it blows the passenger side exterior side and rear lights go out and also the instrument cluster.

What causes the fuse to keep blowing every time I put in a new one?

Optional Information:
1997 Land Rover Discover 4L V6

Already Tried:
replaced bulbs and fuses

Discovery windshield washer leaking

I removed and replaced the Discovery windshield washer reservoir, which had been leaking. Turns out a non-return valve had failed. Will replace it later - for now, I just used a straight connector.

VALVE - NON-RETURN WINDOW WASHER Item: AMR6676	In Stock!	$3.49
Fits: Range Rover Classic | '87 - '95 Discovery I | '94 - '99 Range Rover 4.0 | '95 - '02

Discovery tail light out again

The uppermost bulb on the passenger side rear light was out. Replaced the bulb and 10amp fuse under dashboard (right hand column of fuses, directly above the SRS (yellow-guarded) fuse.

Now all right side rear running lights are on, and installing the new fuse also resulted in the lights-on-but-keys-out-of-the-ignition beeper working again.

Also, the dash lights are now working again!

However, the light behind the clock is still not working, so perhaps that is the bulb for the clock being burned out.

Link: Can't add gas to tank

Posted at LandRoverforums.com: http://www.landroverforums.com/m_21434/tm.htm

Hi all,
Just picked up a 1998 discovery, was at the gas station and I was not able to add gas.
It was almost on empty, light was on, but when I was filling up, the pump will stop like it was full and I was topping off. air was coming out of the fill hole, I had to add about 1/4 to 1/3 gallon, stop and try again, was able to get 3 gallons in before I gave up, enough to continue my trip
any ideas???
many thanks


Sounds like one of the vent lines is not allowing the tank to breathe. You are going to need to have some check all the fuel filler lines and vent to find the cause.
By chance you might also want to try another fuel pump, some gas stations have warn out filler handles and they just shut off early.


I tried 2 different pumps, and someone got to the first pump Iwas using, and he had no trouble
I am going to see if I can check the vent lines
thanks


might want to check to see if the fuel gauge is faulty and reading empty instead of full?? just a thought

EVAPS, fuel tank, anti trickle fill valve

A posting quoting the Discovery Workshop manual's description of the anti-trickle fill valve. Could this valve's malfunction prevent filling the tank?

...from the Workshop manual...
A vent line flow restrictor known as an anti-trickle fill valve is fitted to the filler pipe in the line between the tank and EVAP canister. The function of this valve is to prevent overfilling the tank by trickling fuel in, thereby preserving the vapour space in the tank to allow for fuel expansion during hot weather.

The valve achieves this by blocking the vent line during the fuel filling process. The valve is operated by the action of inserting the filler gun so that when the fuel in the tank reaches the level of the filling breather, flow cut off occurs due to fuel filling the filler pipe.

Fuel level sensor

The fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sensor) on the Discovery died (symptom: fuel guage reads absolutely empty, yellow "low fuel" light on). The sensor works by varying resistance with the level of the float, low resistance at full tank and high resistance (something like 250 ohms) at empty tank. In the picture below, the arm extending to the lower left is the float arm, and attached to it you can see the wiper of the variable resistor. Note the small wire extending down across the front face of the wiper arm, which had rotted and broken so that the circuit was open. The open circuit made the fuel gauge read empty.

I fixed the sender, for now anyway, using a thin piece of copper wire I obtained by sacrificing a pair of headphones. Now, when the tank is absolutely full, the fuel gauge needle is about 1/2 a needle width above the full line.

Note that, when testing the sensor with the pump installed in the tank, the green/black and black wires lead to the sensor. However, since there are two black wires (ground), one for the sensor and one for the pump motor, and because these ground wires are not common, i.e., not tied together, within the pump, you need to check the correct black wire. On this pump, looking at the 4-pin multiplug socket from the top, with the wiring harness disconnected, the correct black wire is the one adjacent side-to-side, not top-to-bottom (where "top" is where the latch on the harness connector is, towards the front of the car).

Link: 2001 Discovery fuel filling problem

Posted at: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Land-Rover-Repair-1470/Fueling.htm

Expert: John McInnis
Date: 7/17/2005
Subject: Fueling up

Question
I have a 2001 disco2 4.0 litre v8 when trying to fill the gas tank the gas backs up in the filler neck and shuts off the filler nozzle it does this even when filling slowly by hand i cannot even fill by locking the nozzle i must do this by hand
i have the NAS filler neck this is a really annoying is there a modification that can be done to the filler neck or a replacement neck
any info on this will be greatly appreciated

thanks bruce

Answer
Hi Bruce,

I've heard of this problem before. It has to be a pressurization problem. There is an air vent tube that allows air to pass as you are filling your tank. If this tube is crimped or damaged it could restrict the air flow and thus cause this problem with every fill-up.

One owner who had this problem, while under warranty, was so fustrated after at least 4 service calls that he insisted on having his fuel tank replaced. Seems to have solved the problem for him.

In your case, you may have to replace the filler neck assembly, perhaps the fault lies near the top and not within the tank. Otherwise, the tank will have to be replaced.

I wondered if the air vent tube could be tested...but since it deals with gas, I'd have an expert pressure test this for blockage.

Best of luck,

JohnMc

Link: 1999 Discovery fuel filling problem

Posted at: http://www.motorbeat.com/complaint/412653/

Complaint for Land Rover Discovery 1999

Complaint about FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE : STORAGE : TANK ASSEMBLY : FILLER PIPE AND CAP

Consumer Complaint:
CONSUMER NOTICED WHEN THE OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE IS HOT GASOLINE FILLER NECK DOES NOT ALLOW YOU TO PUT MORE THAN 2 GALLONS. DEALER NOTIFIED. *AK

Date of Incident:
20030710

Tried something new

I tried filling the Discovery's tank with the small pig-tail vent line disconnected, but the problem persisted. The line is easily detached (quick connect) when looking up at the tank underside kneeling down next to the fuel filler door.

Since disconnecting the line made no difference, it appears that the problem is with getting the fuel down the filler neck, rather than getting vapors out of the tank.

Discovery tail light out

Blown fuse caused loss of passenger-side rear running lights. Replaced fuse, but upper running light is still out. Bulb looks OK, but didn't try replacing it.