Volvo 2001 V70 Trailer hitch wiring adapter

Trailer hitch wiring adapter. Part no. 8698079 ("Taillight Converter"), purchased from IPD in Portland, Oregon.

The wiring adapter plugs right in to a connector in the spare tire well of the Volvo. The wiring assembly comes with a grommet pre-installed, so that the wire passes out through the bottom of the spare tire well right by the receiver hitch.

The wiring assembly is meant to be used with a Volvo OEM hitch, which presents a vertical, rear-facing surface to mount the 4-pin plug to. The wiring assembly comes with a bracket having a 90 degree bend that is configured for that vertical, rear-facing surface. My "Hidden Hitch" brand receiver hitch didn't have a similar place to mount the bracket, so I unbent the bracket to make it totally flat, then mounted it to the underside of the Hidden Hitch.

I drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole into the underside of the hitch so that I could affix the bracket. My cordless drill was a bit too big to fit under the hitch, so I used an air-powered angle drill. I could have figured something else out, e.g., jacking up the rear of the car, but the angle drill worked fine.

Kadee couplers for HO scale model train - Johnny Cash by Hawthorne Village (Bachmann)

Pictures of converting the original couplers on the passenger cars to Kadee couplers. Very, very easy...



The pictures below are in reverse order, with the first one being
the installed Kadee coupler and the last one being the original.

Disassemble F.A. porsche LaCie external hard disc drive enclosure

How to disassemble F.A. porsche LaCie external hard disc drive enclosure, with pictures...

I used a long bladed kitchen knife to get carefully spread apart the sides from the bottom plate. there are 4 small tabs along each side of the case going int 4 slots on the bottom plate. The long sharp blade inserts easily between the side and bottom plate.
Carefully pry the side away from the bottom plate starting from the front working towards the back. You gently twist the blade to get the tabs out of the slots. the first one is the hardest. After that they pop out easy.

The original post by "songdoc" is linked here

Volvo V70 front turn signal bulb failure (front turn signal repair)

Courtesy of the fine forum members at the Volvo XC Forums:

My Volvo V70 was having issues with the front turn signal. It was acting like the front turn signal bulb was burned out, but the bulb was fine. As it turns out, the problem is an intermittent failure in the front turn signal socket, not the bulb. I found the solution on the Volvo XC Forums here: link.

Here's the text from the forum post:

Dave is spot-on with his diagnosis! Thanks, Dave, for saving me lots of time!

In my case, following Dave's method, I pried out the metal shell that makes up the bulb holder/ground. I then used a small file on the tab, greased the whole thing up with dielectric grease, and reassembled. So far, so good. It would probably be easier to replace the bulb socket entirely, making sure to thoroughly grease the new one before installing the bulb.

By the way, the bulb is an 1157A. Dual filament, as Dave mentioned.

Also, to the best of my knowledge, the turn signal socket is called a "Socket Assy, Signal", the right-side socket is Volvo part number 8662985-4, the left-side socket is part number 8662985-4, and the list price for the socket is about $11.00 (U.S. dollars).


Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviator View Post
I just went through this myself at the LF position. The bulb will be flashing, and you'll get the failure message, but if you look closely the bulb is flashing on the wrong filament (park lamp filament [compare it with the other side]). The front signal bulbs are dual filament, and the problem is a poor ground. If you take the bulb out of the socket and look into the bottom you'll see a small tab that's part of the metal bulb holder. This tab contacts a tab that's part of the terminal where you attach your connector. I removed the metal bulb holder (jeweller's screwdrivers work well) and found that where the two tabs touch each other had been arcing long enough to burn a hole in one of the tabs.

Dave.

Here are two related links at VolvoForums.com
first link
second link

Pictures of the bulb holder are included below:

2001 Volvo V70 AGM battery

Battery model no. 9AGM48 (Group 48 battery, AGM (absorbed glass mat) technology).

$162.66 + tax from the warehouse of the East Penn Manufacturing Co., 3801 Curtis Ave., Baltimore, MD.

Marketed under the name of Deka Battery.

Also, the battery can be ordered by G and C Battery (www.gandcbattery.com) in Lorton, Va, (703) 550-2229. The person at G and C Battery was very helpful.

The battery was a perfect replacement for the OEM Volvo battery in my 2001 Volvo V70. I expect the battery will also be correct for the 2005 Volvo S60.

Reset Time for Regular Service message 2005 Volvo S60

On our 2005 Volvo S60, the following worked:

To reset the "time for regular service" message, the steps are:
- turn the ignition key to position I
- then press and hold the odometer reset button
- turn the key to position II
- hold the odometer reset button until the triangle flashes
- quickly release the reset button and then turn the key to the off position.

Note that the odometer was **already at zero** and it worked anyway for me.

Thanks for your help!

Link

2001 Volvo V70 rear tail lights/rear fog lights

The 2001 Volvo V70 has a feature (factory option?) that allows one to turn on rear fog lights, which are basically really bright tail lights. The rear fog lights sit behind red lenses, and are just above the reverse lights (back up lights).

The Volvo part no. is 989823-0. The actual bulb is an Osram bulb, which has the following markings: Osram 3K 7225 LF 12VP21/4W

It is a two-filament bulb, one of which is 21 watts and the other is 4 watts (I think).

2001 Volvo V70 upper tail light bulb holder and bulb

2001 Volvo V70 upper tail light bulb holder and bulbPurchased from the Volvo dealer.30674778-3 LAMP SOCKET (supersedes Volvo VADIS part no. 9483290)989762-0 BULB (actual bulb is an Osram 5007L R5W 12V, which I believe has a BA15S base; the two pins on the base of this bulb are not offset) (989762-0 supersedes Volvo VADIS part no. 965828)

tail lights

Upper tail light:
(identified as bulb no. 3, "rear parking lights 5 W BA 15 s" on page 114 of the 2001 V70 Owner's Manual"
has non-offset pins
17171
(same bulb used by 2005 Volvo S60 tail lights (4 are used there)
same as Osram 5007L R5W, which is the bulb I removed.

Lower tail light
has offset pins
P21-4W 12V 21W 4W BAZ15D ECE( P21-4W/12V/21W/4W/BAZ15D ECE )
Also known as: I 12V 21W 4W BAZ15D S8( I/12V/21W/4W/BAZ15D/S8 ) I 12V 21W 4W BAZ15D S8
bulb specifications:
category: Miniature
volt: 12
amp: 1.75 / 0.333
watt: 21 / 4
base: BAZ15d
glass: S8
filament: C6/C6
fil.res.: 6.86 ohm
m.o.l.: 2.07 inch (52.5MM)
l.c.l.: 1.25 inch (31.8MM)
burn pos: burn lamp in ANY position
cri: 99d.
hours: 150 / 1500
style: p21/4w tail lamp

2005 Volvo S60 and 2001 Volvo V70 license plate illumination light bulb

I used Napa Auto Parts stock no. BP194 - the 194 bulb is a wedge bulb.
Use a T25 Torx wrench, take the one screw out then slide the plastic lens assembly sideways, towards the side from which the screw was removed, until the unseen plastic ear on the other side is clear of the light assembly hole's perimeter. The rubber gasket may be stuck to the paint - I used wooden stir sticks from the coffee bar at Starbuck's to pry it gently. I used silicone grease on the bulb contacts and rubber gasket when reassembling.

Apparently, the "BP" in "BP194" simply means "blister pack" - i.e., packaged as two bulbs on a display card.

Bulb specification:
"194 lamp = 3.78 watts, .27 ampere, rated 1500 hours, a.c.; a bit less light than 168, 1500 hour life."

See also, e.g., servicelighting.com: link

******
Follow-up:
on my V70, the new bulb was slightly dimmer than the remaining good bulb on the other side of the license plate. It would seem that the 194 bulb should be replaced with a 5 watt bulb with an equivalent base (the S60 owner's manual says the bulb should be 5 watt). Not sure what that bulb part no. is though...

As near as I can tell, the markings on the original (dead) bulb I removed from the 2005 S60 said:
P12VED 2DA W5WH4 (or perhaps W5W H4, i.e., with a space)
However, I can't find anything like that listed on the 'net.

bulb failure position light

used bulb no. 1073 (got a box of 10 off eBay). Volvo S60, V70

update: the 1073 bulb is too big. The base is correct, but the glass portion of the bulb has a diameter that is too large to fit into the opening in the lens assembly.

further update: apparently the correct bulb is Wagner part no. 17171 (aka BP17171). http://www.donsbulbs.com/ has great info, but ridiculous prices. Anyway, the following is from DonsBulbs.com:
<http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/r5w12v5wba15s~ece.html>


R5W 12V 5W BA15S ECE( R5W/12V/5W/BA15S ECE )
also known as: I 12V 5W BA15S TUBE( I/12V/5W/BA15S/TUBE )
price per bulb: $6.80 (are you crazy Don?)

I 12V 5W BA15S TUBE bulb specifications:
category:Incandescent
volt: 12
amp: 0.417
watt: 5
base: BA15s - Single Contact Candelabra Bayonet (or S.C.Bayonet)
glass: T6
filament: C2R
fil.res.: 28.8 ohm
m.o.l.: 1.47 inch (37.3MM)
l.c.l.: 0.748 inch (19MM)
burn pos: burn lamp in ANY position
cri: 99
d.hours: 200


In contrast, donsbulbs.com has this to say about the 1073 bulb:
<http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/1073.html>

1073
also known as: 1073 12.8V 1.8A USA( 1073/12.8V/1.8A USA )
price per bulb: $6.20

1073 12.8V 1.8A USA bulb specifications:
category: Miniature
volt: 12.8
amp: 1.8
watt: 23
base: BA15s - Single Contact Candelabra Bayonet (or S.C.Bayonet)
glass: S8
filament: C6
fil.res.: 7.11 ohm
m.o.l.: 2 inch (50.8MM)
l.c.l.: 1.25 inch (31.8MM)
i.lumens: 402
cp: 32
d.hours: 200

So, it's apparent that the 1073 is a 21 watt bulb, whereas the bulb needed is 5 watts. I'll try the 17171...


****Update (this is really a prologue):

The incandescent bulbs discussed above are to replace some absolute cr*p LED bulbs that I bought on eBay from virtualvillage-usa. The seller was actually very good in terms of customer service, even sending me free replacements for my first set of failed LED bulbs. However, their customer service can't offset the fact that the product is completely worthless, with bulb life being measured in days (for some) to weeks (for most), with only one bulb or two bulbs out of the eight that I installed lasting for more than two months. Clearly an inferior product, unfortunately.

virtualvillage-usa

4 X Car Auto White 9 LED Light Bulbs R5W 1156/207 Rear

This pack of four high quality LED auto bulbs will give your car that extra glow whenever you use your rear/tail lights.These four white lamps have a total of 9 long-lasting bulbs in each.
Super bright
Long-lasting
Low energy helps save your power supply
Unique colour
Simple to fit – just like a normal bulb
Bulbs are transparent when not in use
For 12 volts only
Bayonet style fitting
4 white lamps with 9 LED lights in each
Please note that bayonet pins are not opposite
These bulbs are 1156/207 model replacements for use in your vehicle’s: Rear/tail lights

Volvo V70 cargo area lamp Philips 12866

2001 Volvo V70 cargo area lamp (dome light bulb) Philips 12866. This lamp is also known as a Festoon style bulb. They come in all kinds of sizes - make sure you get one that is 41 mm long, 10W (10 watts). 12V (12 volts) of course.

I've also seen the part no. K25673 associated with them, but I have no idea if that is accurate.

I found them for a buck apiece at Totally Clean Marine (www.totallycleanmarine.com). Shipping was $6.95, so I got a few just to ease the pain.

Totally Clean Marine describes the bulb as follows:

Marine Light Bulbs

Festoon Lamps T-3

• 3,500 Life Hours
  
• Festoon Cap SV8.5-8
  
• 10mm Diameter

For all I know, it's available at the local auto parts store. However, I didn't feel like running around town looking for it.

Atlanta Light Bulbs sells them in lots of 10:

Part Number 12866 Product Code: 12866

Description 12V .67A 10W T3 SV8.5-8 FESTOON CAP $0.92 (Minimum order: 10)

You can also get them from Donsbulbs.com for, get this, $22 each!:
At least your $ gets you a good description of the bulb: link
DE3175 EIKO

category:		Miniature/Festoon
volt:		12
amp:		0.833
watt:		10
base:		SV8.5-8 - Festoon
glass:		T3-1/2
filament:		C8
fil.res.:		14.4 ohm
m.o.l.:		1.61 inch (41MM)
i.lumens:		115
cp:		9.2
d.hours:		200

Cub Cadet lawnmower 2003 model 977A SR 621, 12A-997A100

Re: Cub Cadet lawnmower 2003 model 977A SR 621, 12A-997A100

Replacing worn Cub Cadet lawnmower control cable part no. 746-04055 (blade clutch cable - blade safety stop)

From M&D Mower
<MandD.com>
I did a little investigating and found that MTD-746-0552 is the replacement for MTD-746-04055. The description is: CABLE-CONTROL-49IN, and the price is $20.37. When I go to try to order MTD-746-04055 from my supplier, it show the replacement as MTD-746-0552.


>>>
>>> Shipping Method: Standard
>>> Handling Charge: Daytime Phone: xxxxx
>>> Evening Phone:
>>>
>>> Quan Item No. Description Price Ext
>>> ----- ------------ ------------------------------- ---------- ----------
>>>
>>> 1 MTD-746-041 MTD Part 74604109 / 746-04109 $14.61 $14.61
>>> 09 stk:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 1 MTD-746-088 MTD Part 7460883 / 746-0883 $5.87 $5.87
>>> 3 stk:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> SUBTOTAL $20.48
>>> SALES TAX $0.00
>>> SHIPPING $7.95
>>> HANDLING $0.00
>>>
>>> ORDER $28.43
>>> TOTAL
>>>
>>>
>>> Comments
>>> -------------
>>> If possible, it would be appreciated if you could confirm that part no. 746-04109 replaces part no. 746-04055. The mower is a Cub Cadet 977A, and the parts diagram can be downloaded here:
<http://www.dixiesales.com/ipl/297/SR621_SRE621_(12A-977A_12AE977C).pdf>
If you believe that part no. 746-04055 has been substituted with a different part no. than 746-04109, please contact me at xxxxx. If you can't find anything regarding part substitutions, then please place the order and I will hope that my information is correct. Thank you, xxxxx

1997 Land Rover Discovery - reset ABS warning light

The following are instructions I found on the 'net. They worked perfectly for me on our 1997 Land Rover Discovery to reset the ABS warning light. Our car as the OBD-II connector under the dash, projecting through the fashia just below the fuse box and above the gas pedal.


*********************

ABS Fault Blink Code Diagnostic Procedure

MODEL:
Discovery

AFFECTED VEHICLES
LP
LH
LJ TA163104 onwards
LJ TA501920 onwards

DETAIL

If diagnostic equipment is not available (i.e. there is not a current TestBook disk available) the following procedure can be carried out using the "Blink Code" method to read fault codes. Faults are stored in the ECU memory in code form, which can be retrieved by initiating and reading a series of flash and pause sequences on the ABS warning light.

ACTION REQUIRED

If diagnostic equipment is not available follow the procedure below to diagnose an ABS fault.

PARTS INFORMATION

YPJ10015 - terminal - 2 required (available in LRNA Terminal Kit).

PROCEDURE

1. Fabricate a jumper wire with YPJ10015 terminals and appropriate wire (6" length 16 gauge).

2. Locate TestBook diagnostic connector under dash. Connect jumper wire to pins 5 and 15 and turn ignition to position 2.

3. Five seconds after the ignition is turned to position 2 the Anti-Lock warning light will extinguish, indicating the start of the cycle.

4. Observe the Anti-Lock warning light, the start phase of the blink code is signified by the following:

- Pause = 2.5 secs. (long)
- Flash = 2.5 secs. (long)
- Pause = 2.5 secs. (long)
- Flash = 0.5 secs. (short)

5. The first part of the code number is determined by a pause of 2.5 secs. which precedes a series of short flashes then a long pause. The number of short flashes is equal to the first digit in the fault code.

6. The second digit in the code number is determined after a pause of 2.5 secs. which occurs between the first and second code flashes. After the pause there will be a number of short flashes, the number of flashes is equal to the second digit in the fault code. After the flashes there will be another pause of 2.5 seconds before the system repeats the flash and pause sequence. This will allow for a verification of the code or if the initial flash and pause sequence was missed.

7. The sequence of the start phase, first and second code parts will continue until terminated by the operator. To terminate the code sequence disconnect the jumper wire.

NOTE:Termination will clear the memory of that particular fault, and the fault will not be retrievable. Do not terminate the sequence if unsure of the code number.

8. The memory is capable of storing more than one fault. To search the memory, after the jumper wire is disconnected wait until the Anti-Lock light illuminates and then turn the ignition off, the code is now completely cleared. To obtain the next code repeat the procedure from step 2.

9. If there are no faults remaining there will be a long pause of 7.5 secs. after the start phase.

10. Once all the codes have been obtained and cleared, locate the problem cause and rectification for each code and fix accordingly.


FAULT CODE LIST

KEY: IV - Inlet Valve, OV - Outlet Value, RCP - Recirculation pump (ABS pump)

Sensor check:

1. Carry out multimeter test, check electrical resistance of sensor, this should be 700-2000 ohms. Check sensor voltage output, this should be greater than or equal to 0.93 VAC RMS when rotating the wheel at 1 rev/sec.

2. Check sensor air gap. Push sensor through bush until it touches exciter ring. Sensor will be knocked back to correct position when the vehicle is driven.

3. Check run out of the exciter ring and rectify if necessary.

4. Check bearing play and adjust if necessary.

5. Check sensor bush and exchange if necessary.

*********************
Below are four pictures and some videos showing where the Testbook Connector (OBD-II connector / Diagnostic Test Connector) is located, what the pinout looks like, and the jumpers I used to initiate the blink codes.

The picture below shows the pinout for the connector. Note that the diagram I printed off the 'net is being held upside down. Pin no. 1 is at the lower right corner, pin no. 8 is at the lower left corner, pin no. 9 is at the upper right corner, and pin no. 16 is at the upper left corner.

The picture below shows my jumper setup. FANCY! The wires were too small a gauge, so I folded them over and squished the fold with pliers. They fit nicely after that.

*********************
The videos below show the blink codes being read out. The first code is 2-6, the second is 2-14, and the third is 5-14. Below the videos is a post copied from the web explaining the codes (the post also explains how to do this on a different Land Rover).

*********************

Just behind the driver's feet is a plastic panel. Remove that panel and locate the blue ABS diagnostic connector. Use a paper clip to jump the black and black/pink wires together. Remove the trim panel on the door side of the seat and remove the ABS light relay. It will be either blue or green depending on the year of the vehicle. Turn on the key (don't engage the starter) and the anti-lock light will begin a series of blinks. The first will be a long blink followed by a short blink. This indicates that the ECU is in diagnostic mode. Start counting the blinks after that. The first code that comes up will be something like blink, blink, a 2.5 second pause, and then blink, blink, blink, blink, blink, blink to indict a failure code of 2-6. Each stored code will display this way 3 times before the next one starts. It is a slow process (especially if you have 4-15's and 6-15's stored) but it works.
The Codes:
Code 2-6 - Faulty stoplight switch or wiring. Fuse A5 blown or not fitted
Code 2-7 - Continuous supply to ECU with ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring Code 2-8 - No voltage to ABS solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Code 2-12 - Front right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-13 - Rear left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-14 - Front left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-15 - Rear right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 3-0 to 3-9 - Open circuit in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU
Code 4-0 to 4-9 - Short circuit to earth in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster
Code 4-12 - Front right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 4-13 - Rear left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 4-14 - Front left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high. Code 4-15 - Rear right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 5-0 to 5-9 - Short circuit to 12volt in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, possible earth fault.Code 5-12 - Front right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-13 - Rear left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-14 - Front left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-15 - Rear right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 6-0 to 6-9 - Short circuit between two connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
Code 6-12 - Front right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-13 - Rear left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-14 - Front left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-15 - Rear right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.

To clear the code, pull out the paper clip whle the code is flashing. I only had one code for my problem, but for multiple codes, I understand that the next code will come up after you clear the current one. You might need to turn the ignition off, replace the jumper and turn back on for that, though.

http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=19874

1997 Land Rover Discovery short circuit on Fuse 8

1997 Land Rover Discovery short circuit on Fuse 8 (fascia fuse box fuse F8) has finally been cured.

Symptoms: no dinging alarm bell when you have the driver's side (left side) door open and the headlights (or running lights) on; no dash lights (no dashboard illumination); no clock light (backlight - the light behind the clock); no passenger side (right side) running lights, including no righthand tail light.

The cause turned out to be a broken piece of plastic on the glove compartment light. Opening the glove compartment door immediately blew the fuse. If Land Rover had spent 10 seconds thinking about this, they would have foreseen it. Oh well.

Here's a short video clip of the bad glove box light (glove compartment light) that resulted in the blown fuse at F8 in the fascia fuse box:



***************
Check out this post from somebody who likely had the same problem:

1997 Land Rover Discovery, Fuse #8 keeps blowing. When it blows the passenger side exterior side and rear lights go out and also the instrument cluster.

What causes the fuse to keep blowing every time I put in a new one?

Optional Information:
1997 Land Rover Discover 4L V6

Already Tried:
replaced bulbs and fuses

Volvo repairs at Don Beyer Volvo, Falls Church, VA

2008_01_24 (Thursday) - in to work early to drop off car, again. Dropped off car and showed Chris Prevatt the sound that comes from the steering column during low speed, full lock turns. He said it is likely that the steering column rubber boot needs lubricant. Picked up car later in the day, with everything apparently having been fixed (finally).
2008_01_21 (Monday) - Chris Prevatt called to say part had come in.
2008_01_15 (Tuesday) - Chris Prevatt called to say that part did not come in with the morning parts shipment, but it might arrive in the afternoon parts shipment. Later in the day, he called to say that the part did not come in with the afternoon shipment, and that it was expected to come into New Jersey on January 21st. Interestingly, he mentioned that they would "put that regulator on there" even though the part is supposedly a fuel tank sending unit.
2008_01_11 (Friday) - took the Ford Taurus loaner car home (front tire seriously low on air)

Clearing Range Rover ECU fault codes

As applied to a 1990 NAS Range Rover Classic:

Clearing Fault Codes
1. Switch ignition on.
2. Disconnect serial link mating plug, wait 5 seconds, then reconnect.
3. Switch ignition off, wait for main relay to drop out.
4. Switch ignition on. The display should now be reset. If there are other faults, the next one will be displayed. Otherwise the display will be black.
5. If there is more than one fault repeat steps 1 to 4, to clear each fault until the display is blank.

Link to more detailed pdf.

Discovery windshield washer leaking

I removed and replaced the Discovery windshield washer reservoir, which had been leaking. Turns out a non-return valve had failed. Will replace it later - for now, I just used a straight connector.

VALVE - NON-RETURN WINDOW WASHER Item: AMR6676	In Stock!	$3.49
Fits: Range Rover Classic | '87 - '95 Discovery I | '94 - '99 Range Rover 4.0 | '95 - '02

New Ceiling Fan

Minka Concept II 44" Ceiling Fan - very nice, easy to put up, and very, very quiet.

About $220 including shipping.

Discovery tail light out again

The uppermost bulb on the passenger side rear light was out. Replaced the bulb and 10amp fuse under dashboard (right hand column of fuses, directly above the SRS (yellow-guarded) fuse.

Now all right side rear running lights are on, and installing the new fuse also resulted in the lights-on-but-keys-out-of-the-ignition beeper working again.

Also, the dash lights are now working again!

However, the light behind the clock is still not working, so perhaps that is the bulb for the clock being burned out.