Many of the DVD's we play in the car have all kinds of junk at the beginning, which means always clicking through menus and skipping sections of the DVD. Re-burn the DVD without all that junk:
DVD rip with MactheRipper
In Toast 7 Titanium, choose the "Video" tab at the top, then choose the "DVD-video from VIDEO_TS" radio button.
Locate the folder containing the ripped DVD and select in Toast ("read from"). Click on "copy options" in Toast and select: "Main Movie Only" from Video drop down; "Primary only" from Audio drop down; uncheck any languages other than English.
Burn DVD.
(all on a Mac)
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Thursday, October 25, 2007
Clearing Range Rover ECU fault codes
As applied to a 1990 NAS Range Rover Classic:
Clearing Fault Codes
1. Switch ignition on.
2. Disconnect serial link mating plug, wait 5 seconds, then reconnect.
3. Switch ignition off, wait for main relay to drop out.
4. Switch ignition on. The display should now be reset. If there are other faults, the next one will be displayed. Otherwise the display will be black.
5. If there is more than one fault repeat steps 1 to 4, to clear each fault until the display is blank.
Link to more detailed pdf.
Clearing Fault Codes
1. Switch ignition on.
2. Disconnect serial link mating plug, wait 5 seconds, then reconnect.
3. Switch ignition off, wait for main relay to drop out.
4. Switch ignition on. The display should now be reset. If there are other faults, the next one will be displayed. Otherwise the display will be black.
5. If there is more than one fault repeat steps 1 to 4, to clear each fault until the display is blank.
Link to more detailed pdf.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Discovery windshield washer leaking
I removed and replaced the Discovery windshield washer reservoir, which had been leaking. Turns out a non-return valve had failed. Will replace it later - for now, I just used a straight connector.
| VALVE - NON-RETURN WINDOW WASHER Item: AMR6676 | $3.49 | |
| Fits: Range Rover Classic | '87 - '95 Discovery I | '94 - '99 Range Rover 4.0 | '95 - '02 | ||
Saturday, October 20, 2007
New Ceiling Fan
Discovery tail light out again
The uppermost bulb on the passenger side rear light was out. Replaced the bulb and 10amp fuse under dashboard (right hand column of fuses, directly above the SRS (yellow-guarded) fuse.
Now all right side rear running lights are on, and installing the new fuse also resulted in the lights-on-but-keys-out-of-the-ignition beeper working again.
Also, the dash lights are now working again!
However, the light behind the clock is still not working, so perhaps that is the bulb for the clock being burned out.
Now all right side rear running lights are on, and installing the new fuse also resulted in the lights-on-but-keys-out-of-the-ignition beeper working again.
Also, the dash lights are now working again!
However, the light behind the clock is still not working, so perhaps that is the bulb for the clock being burned out.
Thursday, October 18, 2007
MS Word won't paste in reading layout
Today's new discovery is another malfunctioning part of Microsoft Word. This time, copying text from one document and pasting to another using paste special paste as text fails - pasting instead only a series of paragraph marks.
Setting the views back to print layout fixes this problem - the pasted text appears, not just paragraph marks.
Lousy MS products...
Setting the views back to print layout fixes this problem - the pasted text appears, not just paragraph marks.
Lousy MS products...
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Blogger failing to honor exif orientation tags
It now appears that blogger is failing to honor exif orientation tags at the time images are uploaded, so that pictures taken in portait mode are displayed sideways in bloggers, i.e., in landscape mode. Anyone know why, how to workaround, etc.?
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Bosch Dishwasher Repair SHU43C SHU43C05
Hints, pictures and video for replacement of a pump seal and impeller for a Bosch dishwasher. No service manual or repair instructions appear to be on the 'net for download, so I thought I'd try to help out...
The Cliff's Notes version of this project: the dishwasher had become very loud when washing, with a significant squeal factor. I ordered an impeller kit (see below) for the pump from PartsTap.com (thanks!) and installed it, which solved the problem. Removal & rebuilding of the pump requires pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, turning it upside down, fixing the pump, and then reinstalling. It probably took me 3 1/2 hours, but I didn't know what I was doing and made a few missteps, taking apart stuff that didn't need to be.
The impeller kit order, from PartsTap.com you can email them at: customerservice **at** partstap.com
I received the shipment 3 or 4 days after ordering it.
Part Number Description Qty Price
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
PT8407128 (167085) Circulation pump repair kit 1 $67.48
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subtotal $67.48
Tax $0.00
Shipping $5.95
Total $73.43
Now, details:
A digital camera is a great help for ensuring that you know how it all goes back together!
Also note in this picture, towards the left-hand side, the debris left by the leaking pump. The pillar next to that debris is where one of the rubber motor mounts hooks on - more about that below.
Note that nothing on the inside of the dishwasher needs to be removed for this procedure. I figured that out only after completely removing the whole pump assembly from the bottom of the wash tub.
I don't have any images or video of the pump seal being removed from the backing plate. Be careful with that procedure - work the old pump seal out of the backing plate by gently pushing it out from the motor side using a small screwdriver or similar. Work you way around and around to ease it out - don't try to do it all at once.
When installing the new seal, I cleaned the backing plate thoroughly then used a very small amount of Pam on the surface of the backing plate where the seal slides in. Always, be very careful not to damage the smooth carbon face of the seal, and keep it clean (no lubricant, grit, etc.).
This video shows the pump after the impeller has been removed. You can see the old seal still in place in the backing plate, and the o-ring around the perimeter of the backing plate. Also, you can see that the backing plate has non-equal lugs or ears, so that it only mates to the pump motor in one way.
In this picture, there is still a seal 0r guide remaining on the motor shaft - that slides right off. A replacement was included in my impeller kit.
This video shows the orientation of the small seal or guide that is the last part to come off and the first part to go back on to the pump motor shaft. The seal has one wider side and one narrower side, so pay attention when putting it back on.

I realized after I had been working at this for a while that there is a tube that isn't connected to anything. This is a vent that leads to a side of the dishwasher tub.

I wanted to lubricate the o-ring a bit before reassembling the pump head, but you need to be careful not to use an incompatible lubricant. Since I didn't know the material used for the o-ring, and since almost all o-ring materials tolerate vegetable oils well, I used a small amount of Pam on the o-ring.
Note that the impeller-to-seal interface should not be lubricated. The seal is a carbon seal that runs on a matching face of the impeller (a ceramic face?).
This video shows how the door counterweight springs get hooked back up to the strings. Note that the spring was not seated at the back of the dishwasher so that I could do this with one hand while filming it.
Note that the impeller-to-seal interface should not be lubricated. The seal is a carbon seal that runs on a matching face of the impeller (a ceramic face?).
Friday, October 12, 2007
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If you have any questions regarding the trucks listed for sale on this page, please email me at jbeale insert_at_symbol_here hevanet insert_period_here com.
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